by Giulio Nascimbeni 

The shocking  twenty-five beginning minutes of “Saving private Ryan”, are talked about and are going on being talked about. The Steve Spielberg's picture, which has inaugurated, “hors concours”, the Venice cinema exhibition, is beating all income records have been recorded till now  
It deals with the most crude sequences of all the war cinematography: soldiers who pick up  their own legs taken off from their bodies, soldiers who hold their own quartered entrails,  bodies butchered by grenades, the sea red of blood. Spielberg has this way represented, following the atrocious and painful truth, the impact of the American units when disembarking in the so called Omaha beach, on June 6th 1944, the  “D-Day”, the day of the allies disembarkation in Normandy. 
I haven't seen the Spielberg's picture, but I have been, right twenty years ago, in the places of the disembarkation for a reportage. I wanted to understand how it works this “war scenario” which became meantime a tourist machine and I wondered why nearly four hundred thousand visitors went  every year to those places. There were not hotels, restaurants, luncheonettes, tobacconist's, stores, which did not show at the entrance, the geographic map bearing a writing that says “Les plages du débarquement”. 
On the map it was highlighted the conventional names the allies gave to the beaches: Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, Sword. It  was immediately revealed the art, French at all, of award with hauls of legend and virtual triumph arcs not only the decisive events, as it was indeed general considered the “D-Day”, but also their minor symbols, as I could observe in the surroundings of Arromanches, from a high point of the coast, called St. Come-de-Fresné. 
The “D-Day” left in the sea, always some snarling, some rust “relics” which seemed to be abandoned rafts. But it was enough to look at them using binoculars to see them becoming  huge nets to trap seagulls. Another place where suggestion renewed was in Benouville, where the Orne river and the Caen channel stream parallel. In front of the iron bridge called Pegasus, a magic soundtrack started playing sailplane rustle, shots, missile explosions. The soundtrack was only in my memory. There was also the  plaintive sound of bagpipes that tuned up the “Blue Bonnets over the Border”. 
The episode, which the imaginary soundtrack referred to, was true. 

The unit which,  with the Italians, in the night between June 5th and 6th 1944, occupied the zone, was reached after hours and hours of wait by the “commandos” of Lord Lovat, the “Sir” of the Loch Ness Lake. Heading them, among the nazi fire, moved on a bagpipes player whose name was Bill Millin. 
What have ever remained of all this? A two little rooms museum (but is it right to call it this way?), a regiment little house, a collapsible bicycle, guns,  portraits of generals. But I cannot disregard the one concerning a great definitive writing “Exposition permanente d'Arramanches”. The museum was more rich than others. If somebody have not understand yet what it was the disembarkation, in Arromaches he could see the Normandy within the dimensions and the colours of a plastic model: the yellow of the beaches, the blue of the Channel, the grey of the boats, the flags, the indications of the units. Some lights switched on in the point of Omaha or in the point of Gold. For an instant, it seemed we were presenting the fits and starts of a juke-box. But then the same suggestion was repeated, the tiny boats didn't make anyone think anymore about a hypothetical children game. 
If still there was someone indifferent among the public, a document aimed to motion him  was projected at the end of the visit. It dealed with  the images shot just on June 6th 1944, “the longest day”, as it tells the title of the Cornelius Ryan famous book  and the picture drawn from it in 1962. (about the expression “the longest day”, it is drawn from a sentence of the field marshal Rommel who said to his aid-de-camp: “the first 24 hours of the invasion will be decisive. For the allies and Germany it will be the longest day”). 
The document showed the teamed sea, a roof of aeroplanes in the sky, the cannons, the men exhausted by hours of vomit during crossing, the beaches crowded of iron obstacles and mines. The film was a little worn out. Changeless for years  as it has been affected by a photocopier flash, it could have awaken the tiredness of the repeated experiences for neither the heroism nor the courage seem they can withstand the multiplication wear. 
But when the document speaker said that the images we were watching at had changed “the destiny of our century and maybe of the centuries to come”, there was a sudden tremble. We could enter paying, there were an opening and a closing time to observe, “souvenir” and cards to buy , but there was a thrill, indubitable and deep. 
 
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